As Barcelona is invaded by ever-larger hordes of tourists filling the city centre, an alternative destination has emerged a little further down the sunny Mediterranean coast: València. Whether it’s the exquisite architecture, the mouth-watering food or the easy-going lifestyle you’re here for, we guide you to the best things to do in València. Go ahead and spend a few days dining, dancing and sightseeing with laid-back Valencianos and see if you don’t prefer it to a holiday crushed between backpacks and selfie-sticks.

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Traditional & historic: a walk among cultural landmarks

The Romans strategically built València by the sea over 2000 years ago and it still continues to benefit from the enviable location. Start your first day with a morning stroll, or jog if that’s more your speed, at Playa del Cabanyal north of València’s port. You’ll find lots of regulars coming here for a swim in the peace and relative solitude. Morning light in València is magnificent, especially near the water.

Just a few blocks away from the sea is the former fishing ‘barrio’ El Cabanyal. Take the scenic route to breakfast and admire its elaborately tiled traditional homes. House #37, Carrer del Mediterrani, is one of the most photographed – snap a picture and then walk along Carrer del Progrés for more great examples of these cultural landmarks. When hunger calls, try getting a table at nearby Bodega La Pascuala which serves up customary breakfast ‘bocadillos’ in generous portions from their space on Carrer del Doctor Lluch.

Unless you’re up for a day of walking, hop on one of the rental bikes from Valenbisi and pedal to the foot of the El Jardín del Turia. This nine-kilometre long dry riverbed is among the greatest green spaces of any Spanish city. Bike north in the tranquillity of the park until you reach the enormous fallen figure of Gulliver (of Gulliver’s Travels). Whether you’re travelling with kids or not, make like a Lilliputian and clamour up Gulliver’s shins and slide down his hair. Yes, he’s that big!

At some point, all visitors feel the pull of València’s historic centre, with its 16th-century Unesco-listed La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) and 13th-century València Cathedral. Also consider visiting the lesser-known Banys de l’Almirall, Moorish baths which, surprisingly, were built after Moorish rule ended.

Two blocks from the baths is a delicious lunch option at the very quaint La Riua. It’s the perfect place to try that Valencian specialty everyone’s been talking about – ‘all i pebre’. You thought it was going to be paella, didn’t you? Let’s save that for later. ‘All i pebre’ is a saucy eel stew invented and perfected in Albufera, the lagoon south of the city. La Riua also has a good selection of D.O. València wines you should probably ‘test out’.

Many of the shops are closed during siesta from about 2:30pm-5pm so this is a good time to lounge in one of the many parks or plazas with a book. Perhaps one with a story set in València like Jason Webster’s crime novel Or the Bull Kills You or if you’re in the mood for epic storytelling, have a go at The Poem of the Cid.

Many restaurants in Spain don’t serve dinner until 8:30-9pm. Though you won’t have any trouble finding great tapas, a general rule of thumb is that the closer you are to a popular tourist site, the worse the food will be and the more you’ll pay for it. Don’t be afraid to venture beyond the tourist trail.

Make sure you aren’t too full after dinner to bike to your last location of the night. You could go somewhere like Café del Duende and watch Flamenco, which is emblematic of Spain, though not of València, or consider Jimmy Glass Jazz bar. The intimate space is the perfect spot to wind down and drink cava long into the night.

Contemporary & futuristic: a city set to impress

Start your second day at the comfortable El Bar near the foot of the Turia. It offers tasty and good-sized breakfasts and it’s close to our first destination of the day.

Sitting like an alien space-station in the Turia Gardens is the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts & Sciences). Dr Who fans may recognise it as colony Gliese 581 D, but the futuristic complex actually holds Europe’s largest aquarium, an opera house, IMAX theatre, science museum and an esplanade which includes a swanky nightclub – more on that later. Buy a ticket, take a tour or walk around it and admire Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava’s artistry.

A 30-minute walk and you’re at Bluebell Coffee in the eclectic Russafa (aka Ruzafa) neighbourhood. Bluebell is not only one of València’s best brunch/lunch spots, it also has the city’s best coffee. Try to get a seat in the tiny courtyard. Don’t leave Russafa without popping into lifestyle store Gnomo to grab a València or Russafa-themed souvenir T-shirt.

Walk or bike to Spain’s first contemporary art museum IVAM in the enchanting El Carmen neighbourhood. Their vast collection includes international legends like Marcel Duchamp and influential Spanish artists like sculptor Julio González. On your way there, keep an eye out for the fantastic street art that peppers the city.

For your fashion fix, poke around Carrer de la Pau where you’ll find iconic Spanish brands like Carolina Herrera and Loewe. For something a bit indie check out local designer Francis Montesinos at his shop near the train station, or Valencian-born, Vogue-endorsed jewellery designer Vicente Gracia also on Carrer de la Pau.

For dinner, why not splurge on València’s most affordable Michelin-starred restaurant El Poblet near the elegant City Hall? Part of the Quique Dacosta empire, this restaurant is a centre of calm, serving a seafood-centric menu inspired by Dacosta’s three Michelin starred namesake restaurant in coastal Dénia. If El Poblet is out of your budget, consider his gastropub Mercatbar.

Sometime around midnight, make a bee-line for L’umbracle Terraza back in the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias where you can get down with the beautiful Valencianos in their equally beautiful get-ups. It’s a great night to try Agua de València – cava and orange juice (squeezed from Valencian oranges of course) with a bit of gin and vodka.

Get outta town

You can easily spend three full days in València, but why not get out of town and see what the countryside has to offer?

45 kilometres north of the city are the Coves de Sant Josep – the largest navigable underground river in Europe. Spend about 45 minutes in a large rowboat traversing the river through subterranean caves. Unfortunately, they don’t allow photos so you’ll just have to preserve this adventure the old-fashioned way.

If you’re too claustrophobic, opt for one of the agricultural areas outside the city that are responsible for València’s famous horchata and paella.

Hop on the #25 bus line to El Palmar and spend a day in the Albufera lagoon beside El Palmar, which is home to the rice fields that produce the main ingredient of València’s most famous dish – paella. There is no paella more authentic than here. Take a boat tour of the lagoon and then order lunch – paella is always for lunch – of the original paella Valenciana, which is prepared with rice, chicken, rabbit, beans and saffron. You almost can’t go wrong at any of the restaurants here, so find one that suits your taste and dig in.

The best place to taste València’s renowned chufa (tiger nut) horchata drink is at the source. Take the Xurra Greenway – part of the ‘Via Verde’ network of reclaimed railway lines now used for hiking and biking – and go north through the orange orchards until you reach Alboraya. There are plenty of ‘horchaterias’ here or go a little further and find Horchateria Vida, just past the river outside of town. By the time you’ve had a taste of València’s magical blend of old and new, an adventure out of the city and picked up a few souvenirs – including some dancing blisters and a hangover – you’ll be glad you came here.

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Looking for more on the Iberian Peninsula?

• do some road trippin’ from northern Spain to Seville 
• bike your way through another Spanish city with our cycling guide to Málaga
• explore Porto beyond the port with our three-day guide