In Honolulu cars crawl along at a slow pace, their bumper stickers reading: ‘Slow down, brah. This ain't the mainland.’ When you ask for advice, the locals will direct you to either ‘mauka’, towards the mountain – or ‘makai’, towards the sea. Choose the sea, and you are in for amazement. While visitors flock to Waikiki Beach, locals go body-boarding in the smaller coves close to Downtown. That is, those that don’t play Rugby in Kapiolani Park, in the shadow of famous Diamond Head crater. On the slopes of the iconic giants sprawls one of the world’s most popular farmers' markets.
There are only 12 letters in the Hawaiian alphabet.
As night falls, hula music lures from around every corner, but for the best in contemporary jazz explore Chinatown’s hidden basement bars and cult late-night noodle joints.